A Trail in Nemo

On Friday Josh, myself, and our friend, Matt Kinsey, were able get out for awhile and explore. We ended up, unexpectedly, in Nemo. We headed into the Black Hills National Forest on the lookout for a uninhabited trail.

We found one at the end of Boxelder Forks Road. The road dead ends and a trail begins. The weather forecast said to expect sunshine with a possibility of showers. When we parked the jeep and headed down the trail it was sunny.

The unnamed trail follows Boxelder Creek. The stream meanders back and forth and the trail crosses it at least 5 times. The crossings added an edge of adventure.

Over the course of the next hour the weather changed several times. From sunny, to drizzle and finally to all out downpour. Walking in the rain was nice. Since it so rarely rains here we enjoyed our wet walk until it really threaten to soak us. We sought out shelter and chatted under the canopy of a helpful tree.

The rest of our hike was uneventful- exactly the way we wanted it. We returned to the jeep, wet and content.

Exploring Inside the Outdoor Campus

Yesterday Eli and I found ourselves in Rapid City with a whole afternoon free. One of my favorite places to visit is the Outdoor Campus West and even though Eli is so young, I thought it would be fun for him to see what it had to offer.

There is lots to explore at the Outdoor Campus, especially as a young child. There are four areas dedicated to biomes here in South Dakota. We played our way through the Black Hills, the Badlands, the Prairie and the Wetlands.

The giant aquarium was probably his favorite. It's full of sturgeon, bass, trout, catfish, and fish I didn't recognize. They swam slowly by, taunting us. Eli was completely engaged. He's never seen anything quite like that.

Eli also enjoyed the tunnels, the animal pelts, and the hollow log. Each room offered him something he'd never seen before and he was into it all. I was impressed with his speed moving from one thing to the next. We played with the puppets, touched the beaver dam, and hid out under a tree. The faces he made were priceless and I was so thankful we had stopped in.

We held our play for a few moments to eat a snack and watch short videos of coyotes catching prey and prairie dogs playing. Once we were refueled, we were off again.

After playing for awhile longer and making a few friends, we watched the aquarium one last time and hit the road. I could tell that Eli had a great time and apparently, having that much fun is exhausting because Eli slept the whole way home.

I Believe in the Lesson's in Nature

I was tasked earlier in the year with writing a "This I Believe" essay. I heard my first "This I Believe" essay in 2006, with the passing of my friend, Michelle Gardner Quinn and it was one of the last writings she had left behind. It described her reverence in nature and for all living things. It was an incredibly powerful essay, for many reasons, and when I was asked to write one of my own I couldn't help but reflect back. 

My assignment was to relate my relationship with nature to lessons that I have learned from it. Since, it relates to my family, the roots of my love for the woods, and our future as a family, I thought posting it here would suit.. It is purposely short, under 500 words, and here it goes...

 I Believe in the Lesson's in Nature

I believe in the lesson’s in nature. It teaches me that change is constant, peace is found within and that my past and future is intertwined with the natural world.

 When I was young, I walked in the forest behind my home. The woods were filled with oak, maple, poplar and pine trees. They line old two-track roads. They split the rock walls. They stood as tall as my imagination. I thought they had been there forever. I walked these woods in each season: spring, summer, fall and winter. Also through the seasons of my life: child, teen, and adult. Each season gave perspective on my relationship with the natural world.

As a child, I built a treehouse just outside of my mother’s yell. Three knotty pines held up three 2x4s that would be the foundation of the roof. I used old tongue and groove boards to make a ladder. I used the ladder to carry boards up and laid them across the 2x4s. I posted a reclaimed sign at the ladder. It read, “Ski Patrol Only.” Later, when I visited I cleared the pine needles. When I left the pines reclaimed it. Water and moss set into boards and there was nothing I could do. That was how I learned that nothing in nature is ever mine.

As a teenager, I knew the woods from the back of my horse. I raced home after school to saddle up. My horse and those woods were solitude. I concentrated on the leaves, the alders, and the woodpeckers living around me. We usually walked but sometimes we raced against ourselves and the wind. The spaces between the trees offered peace. Each ride was a chance to just be and I returned rejuvenated; closer to who I am.  

As an adult, I walk the woods with my family. I no longer have my horse. My treehouse has been reclaimed by the forest. The trees are still standing and their canopies ever expanding. Woodpeckers still make it their home. My memories rush back. I reflect and feel saddened. My life has changed so much and the forest so little. I realize that this forest is weaved into who I have become. It has offered me a place to create and learn. In moments of solitude, it harnessed a deep respect of the natural world within me.

Soon, I’ll trim the branches of the trees and watch their seedlings grown. I’ll preserve this piece of earth so that my child may build a treehouse and see it from the back of a horse. Maybe one day he’ll walk the spaces between the trees with a family of his own.

Iron Creek Trail

This past weekend offered the perfect opportunity to escape outside. With our good friend and fellow explorer, Matt Kinsey, visiting and sunshine in the forecast, we were set to hit the trail.

On Sunday, Matt, Eli, and myself headed for Spearfish Canyon. We were going find Anderson Ponds, but I realized that there was some great trails just within reach. One of them being Little Spearfish Falls. Instead of driving by, we pulled in and enjoyed what would be the introduction to our outing. I wrote a bit about this at iEscape Outdoors in "The Overlooked Trail." The trail, though short, was beautiful and worth our attention.

Once back in the car, we headed north towards the Iron Creek trailhead. In the parking lot, it was apparent we'd hit the jackpot- the only car in the lot. The camera was grabbed, babies were back-packed, and Wu Bear was released. We were on our way!

The trail winds through a steep walled, creek carved canyon for over two miles. It was easy going with a slight gain in elevation. Previous visitors had left remnants of their adventures: hiking, snowshoeing, and cross-country skiing.

We walked for about an hour, chatting back and forth, and eventually fell silent. Eli fell asleep on my back and it seemed like the time to just breathe and think about how lucky I am. I was finally out on the trail, under the sun, with my happy, asleep son on my back and a good friend to take it all in with.

Eventually, we reached a point where the trail was blocked by boulders, as it was at the trailhead, and it opened up before us. Unsure of where the trail continued to, we decided to head back.

The walking was easy with the elevation change in our favor but the weight of Eli was getting to my back. Our pace was slow as we worked our way towards the car.

I don't think any of us wanted to get off the trail.

Hiking Jewel Cave- Above & Below

Recently, I was given the opportunity to help lead a snowshoe hike at Jewel Cave National Park. There aren't many places in the Black Hills that have a landscape like Jewel Cave. So naturally, I jumped on the chance.

Back in 2000 when the Jasper Fire ravaged through the southern hills it  burned over 84,000 acres. Twelve years later the scars are still apparent. Visitors can't help but marvel at the standing dead trees shouldered up next to a thriving forest.

I was hoping to snowshoe but on Saturday, there wasn't much for snow, so the snowshoes were tossed. A few visitors showed up for the adventure. Our company consisted of a Ranger, and another volunteer, myself and six visitors. We hiked across the hillside, stopping occasionally to enjoy the landscape or to marvel at a set of animal prints, eventually ending at the original opening of the cave.

Like all caves, Jewel Cave breathes, pushing and pulling air from outside. That afternoon it was exhaling a deep, earthy breath. It was a welcomed smell. The hike led us through forest, to open prairie and down into a ravine then we back tracked.

Once back at the Visitors Center we headed below ground. This time, about 30 visitors joined us. The cave is a constant 55' and offered a reprieve from the wind outside.

A cave is one of my favorite places to be- when the lights are on. Like most of the cave tours I've been on, the lead Ranger took a moment to completely shut off the lights. A blanket of darkness doesn't seem to describe the complete lack of light. It felt like a vacuum.

Myself and the other volunteer brought up the rear, always making sure we were the last people. Quite often someone would be lagging to take photos or enjoy a formation. I couldn't help but think they were brave souls. I would not want to have been left behind- or would I? Exploring a cave on my own could be fun...

Alas, I stayed on the tour, enjoyed the stories and learned a lot about cave formation. I also learned a few new jokes. The day was very satisfying and I was reminded of the beauty that lays not only above ground but below as well.

11th Hour Explorers

Spearfish Canyon is a hiking wonderland. Just when you think that you've done it all, another hike will pop up offering awesome views and new inspiration. This was the case with 11th Hour Gulch.

Looking to the road.

We've heard that 11th Hour Gulch is so-named because it only receives one hour of daylight a day. It is located around Mile 20, right around Kissing Rocks, and there is a small turn-off that allows for a few cars to park.

After parking, my brother-in-law, Jeremiah, Wu, and I headed south a few hundred feet to the gulch. When you are walking south, keep your eyes open, it's pretty easy to miss. The opening is only about 20 feet across and creeps back into a limestone crack.

Wu at the 2nd ladder.

At the entrance there are boulders that have to be tackled. It brings out your inner mountain goat, which is fun. Just past the boulders is an opening that's just big enough for a few people and their gear. Clinging to the right hand side is a iced over waterfall. It was marvelous.

Just past the clearing is a makeshift ladder that brings you up to the next area. It was easy enough to traverse, Wu climbed it without trouble. With the recent snow fall it seemed like a winter wonderland.

When there is one ladder, I guess you should expect two. The next ladder was much steeper and impassable for Wu, though he tried. I made it up beyond it and was confronted with a ice rink, another small iced-over waterfall, and a tree root ladder up to an area that allows for some real hiking.

With Wu stuck at the second ladder, we decided to call this hike and head north to Community Caves. It's a favorite spot of ours, especially with snow on the ground. The hike is definitely more intense but grappling up a ravine is more fun when there's snow to slide down afterward.

Anytime of year, the trail is easy to spot. There's no markers but the braided trails of the visitors throughout the years show the way. We wove down the creek bed and then headed up the ravine. The ice was well developed and we took our time.

The worst part of the trail was the last one hundred feet. It was solid ice but once we reached the top, the frozen waterfall and the green columns of ice were our reward for making it all the way.

It never ceases to amaze me how the area under the overhang is always dry and a perfect haven from the weather outside. It seems to have a calming effect. Each time I visit it seems that I discover something new. I always find the same spot, take a seat, catch my breath, and enjoy the moment.

Once we'd taken it all in, then we began the descent. It was really a barely controlled fall. It was energizing and fun and I highly recommend it!

A Hike on the High Plains

It has been far too long since Josh and I have been out in the woods. So, with warm weather in the forecast we have been planning a day to go out for a family hike. For the last week we've talked about clothing, supplies, and location until we had a plan. Of course, as plans go, it changed.

All packed up and on the road, we changed our destination. Instead of heading into the hills for some snowy fun we opted for the Ft. Meade Recreation Area in Sturgis.

There is an area north of the V.A. hospital that the Centennial Trail winds through and is also open to walk-in archery hunting. Wu and I had discovered it awhile back and it seemed like the perfect place to try out our new child carrier while letting the dog roam.

We arrived and it was apparent that we weren't going to need snowshoes. There was barely any snow at all. Eli was loaded into his pack, Wu was released from the jeep and we were off.

It was a perfect day to be out. The sun was at it's apex, it was nearly 60 degrees and a slight breeze was on our faces. Immediately we started to feel the weeks and months of being inside falling away. With each step we were feeling more like our old selves.

The trail wound through a treed area, across a small creek and then led us up to a ridge that was open and flat. Like most of the land in this region it was being leased out as grazing land for cattle. This was apparent by what had been left behind- we never saw the inhabitants- and the fact that we went through several cattle gates.

The whole while we were marching towards Bear Butte. With the sun at our backs, it was looming before us. Neither of us wanted to turn around, we could have hiked all the way there and back on a normal day. But this was not a normal day and asking Eli to spend a few more hours in a brand new carrier seemed like we would be pushing our luck.

As the sun began its descent on the Black Hills we decided to turn around and begin the march back. Josh had worn Eli on his back the whole way in and the way out was my turn to bring him for a spin.

It wasn't too long and we started to hear from him. All the excitement was too much and he was sleepy but he wasn't sure how to fall asleep standing up. We tried a few things, all of which seemed to irritate him but finally we settled into a nice sing-along of nursery rhymes and he settled down. By the time we reached the creek, he was asleep.

A few minutes later we were at the jeep, wrangling Wu and packing up. We were sad to be heading home but the taste of adventure had reminded us that this is who we are and we shouldn't get away from it again. So, in true Davis family fashion, we headed down the road already planning our next adventure.

1.8.13 Ft. Meade Rec. Area, Bear Butte behind us.